Sway bars installation


Cost: $350 or less


Time: 3-4 hours

Procedure and pictures courtesy of Johnny T.

Sway bars tie the lower suspension components together across the front and the back, they affect the car oversteer and understeer. Bigger sway bars improve stability while cornering, the best setting is fully soft for the front and hard for the back.



Front sway bars are plug and play, very easy. Followed the sway bar link replacement directions. Then just drop the bar and replace it. All 13mm nuts on the sway bar. 1 wrench job. (1 1/2 hour)



  • Floor Jack
  • 2 Jack Stands
  • 13mm socket
  • Socket extension
  • 13mm wrench
  • 18mm socket
  • Additional 18mm socket or ¾ socket
  • 22mm socket
  • Vice Grips (small)

1. Raise the car and put securely on Jack stands. Use wheel chocks on the front tires to prevent roll. There's no need to remove any tires at this point unless you feel the need to. Everything is accessible from below.

2. Remove the rear sway bar links using the 13mm socket and 13mm wrench.
3. Remove the sway bar brackets using the 13mm socket and extension.
4. Place the bolts and nuts in a secure place, you'll need them later.
5. DO NOT remove the sway bar links from the sway bar. They're so cheap, just replace them. Plus unless you're a bushing magician, you'll damage them during removal.
6. That was the easy part, now for the work. There's a bracket on the right rear that will interfere with removal of the sway bar. You don't need to remove it, just swing it out of the way. It's held in place with an 18mm nut and bolt.
7. You'll need 2 sockets to remove it. I used a ¾" socket to hold the top nut and a 18mm socket to turn the bottom one and that worked fine. It takes a hard first turn to break it loose, but after that it's simple. Once the 18mm bolt is removed, take a 22mm socket and place it on the other end of the bracket you'll need to give it a good solid pull and it will turn the entire bracket. I turned the bracket toward the front of the car, away from the wheel well.
8. OK, now you have a loose sway bar and no way to get it off without removing the exhaust. If you have access to a lift, you can probably work it off. On the ground with jack stands there's no way. Believe me, I spent 1/2 hour trying to figure out the easiest way to do it.
9. Take your 13mm socket /wrenches and get ready for removal of the sway bar from under the maze of exhaust and brackets under the car.
10. Take the floor jack and place it under the exhaust. I put it under the 2 pipes, about 18 inches before entry into the muffler. Starting at the rear, remove the muffler brackets, you'll need the 13mm socket and extension. The hardest one to remove is the one by the rear lower valance. You'll need to work the socket and extension in place. Once those are removed, move under the car and get your 13mm wrench. Remove the 13mm nut holding on the exhaust brackets, there are 2, one on each side. Don't try and work off the rubber hanger. Just go ahead and remove the nut.
11. Now move back to the muffler. Let pressure off of the jack and let the exhaust work its way down. You may need to assist it past the left rear valance. I used a screwdriver to help it.
12. Now it's time to remove the wheel, remove only the left rear. Take that one off and you'll be able to remove the sway bar through the wheel well. Work it back to that point of the exhaust and it will slide right out. Ok, maybe not right out, but it is pretty easy.
13. Now it's time to remove the wheel, remove only the left rear. Take that one off and you'll be able to remove the sway bar through the wheel well. Work it back to that point of the exhaust and it will slide right out. Ok, maybe not right out, but it is pretty easy.
14. Now, after risking your life lying under the car and almost blinding yourself from getting rust in your eyes, take a break for a minute.
15. Place the new sway bar in a vertical position. Wet the link with a soap solution and twist it slowly onto the sway bar. Once complete, turn and repeat with the other end.
16. With sway bar links in place work the new sway bar through the rear wheel well and into place.
17. From this point forward, when placing on the nuts, only tighten them to firm resistance and then where applicable go back and tighten them to BMW torque specifications per the Bentley.
18. Attach the sway bar links to the chassis via the 13mm bolts.
19. Wet the new rubber bushings with soapy water and place them into position on the sway bar. (Before you install urethane sway bar bushings, buy a tube of Teflon grease and place the around the bar just where the bushing will sit. Slide the bushing sideways on the bar through the grease and then do the same again the other way. Center the bushing and a voila! You are done. Courtesy of Phil C.)
20. Put the 13mm bolt into the mounting hole threads down.
21. Get the Vice Grips and have them handy.
22. Take the bracket working it into place on the rubber sway bushing.
23. Wedge the "tab" end of the bracket into place, working it up and using the threads from the bolt as you guide. Strong hands help here, no room for weaklings.
24. Press up until it is in position. Take the Vice Grips and lock the bracket into place. (Holding a bolt, nut, bracket, wrench and socket is impossible with 2 hands.)
25. Now with the bracket in position, thread on the nut, remove the Vice Grip and tighten up with the 13mm socket and 13mm wrench.
26. Now with the sway bar in place go around and torque all nuts to Bentley specs where applicable.
27. Using the floor jack raise the exhaust into place being careful again with the rear valance.
28. Use the Vice Grips to hold the rear muffler brackets in place and get the nuts started. Don't tighten them.
29. Use the 13mm wrenches to tighten the exhaust brackets into place.
30. Now go back to the muffler and tighten those nuts.
31. Mount the wheel and slowly lower the car to the ground. Tighten the wheel bolts to spec. Remove the front chocks.

· Drive and enjoy!

Rear 20mm compared to 15mm

Pricing for M tech Nur Touring Sway bars, 2 weeks delivery from Germany
Price with discount
2 x 31 35 1 131 622 Frt support bracket $3.42 each
2 x 31 35 1 134 582 Frt Link $21.30 each
2 x 31 35 2 226 334 Rubber mount $4.56 each
1 x 31 35 2 227 276 Frt Stabilizer bar $115.74
2 x 31 35 1 124 995 Rear support bracket $1.14 each
2 x 33 55 1 135 307 Rear link $18.36 each
2 x 33 55 2 227 240 Rubber mount $3.37 each
1 x 33 55 2 227 416 Rear Stabilizer bar $74.46
Total: $ 294.50 +s/h

To order just contact Pacific BMW at 800-909-7278 ask for mail order dept.


Thanks to Phil C.

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